You can buy them right here on this site Check out the Store. That would explain all three symptoms: Air leaking in at low load, when the gauge pressure was negative, would yield a lean condition and a too-low (in terms of absolute value) vacuum, while air leaking out at high load, when the turbo was spun up, would give too little net boost. revlimiter Gauges (Version Warbird) - waiting to be put in service. It was then, on the road, that I realized that there must be a leak in the intake, somewhere in or near the manifold. Finally, today, I observed that the car's maximum boost seemed to be around 6 pounds per square inch, instead of the normal 8.5.
In the last two days, I've also noticed, thanks to my boost/vacuum gauge,*** that the vacuum level at idle was about 10 inches of mercury, higher than the usual 20-ish.
We are still clearing out the garage in the Grondulbarn, so, as of this morning, I hadn't taken a close look in the engine bay to further diagnose the problem.
#BEST BOOST GAUGE FOR MIATA CODE#
I poked around on * and ** and found that this code could result from a number of sources, including a bad manifold-air-pressure (MAP) sensor, a leak in the intake track, a bad oxygen sensor, and so on. Accessories and repacement parts for GReddy gauges. P2187, as the internet will tell you, is the OBD-II, code for "too lean at idle," or something to that effect. Classic Analog Meters and new combinable clear thin-film EL display. Thanks to my ScanGauge II, I've been able to read the code, P2187, and clear it to see under what circumstances it recurs. Recently, Mia's check-engine light has been coming on intermittently.
0 kommentar(er)
